Hi, I am looking at boost controllers for my turbo mustang. The Eboost2 is at the top of my list. I want to know if it has the ability to ramp boost in. Example, When staged I want 7psi and about 50 feet out I want the full 15+psi. Is this possible with the Eboost2?
Thanks

Luke,

The E-Boost 2 is capable of ramping up boost via external switching by mircoswitches or time based switching if you know the time at which you reach 50 feet.

Hi, what features/functionality am I missing out on in buying the Eboost Street as compared to the Eboost2?
Thanks,
Simon

Simon,

The Eboost2 can control more boost groups, has a variety of methods in boost group shifting e.g. time based shifting, rpm based mapping, sequential shifting etc. It also has shift light options and alarm features. The Eboost Street can control 2 boost levels, and has not auxilary outputs or advanced switching functions.

I would like to use the e-Boost STREET to control my trubo so that it maintains a constant manifold pressure how would I do this?

Thanks
Ray

Ray,

Our eboost street will do what you require, Please read the instructions for the eboost street for further information.

I have eboost 2. Not understanding time based boost ramping. Do I have to hook up two toggle swithes to those two wires for it to work..How can I throw all these switches when at the track?

Also can you do ramping by gear on newer computer controllerd autos..if so how exactly do you get it work.

al b,

The sequential timed base boost switching requires the switches to trigger the timer and reset the timer. Most of these settings are usually used on a drag car to improve traction. The triggers can be setup using microswitches depending on how the car is launched, for example, coming off the transbrake to start the timer. You can do ramping by gear on any car as long as there is a mechanical way of triggering the green and orange wire, ie switches on the paddles and setting the EBoost2 to sequential shifting.

HI there,
Im thinking of buying a eb2 for a volvo S40 T5 AWD 06 model
Is this product suitable for my car?
How easy is it to install?
Do i need any special tools?
Is there any cutting/fabrication etc?
Cheers

Chad,

The unit comes with comprehensive instructions to make installation easy. There is no special fabrication required and it comes with everything you need.

Hi, I have just upgraded from an early model eboost to a eboost2 60psi and am wondering if the sp values from previous eboost will achieve the same boost in the new 60psi eboost?

Jeremy,

The settings should be very similar, try putting in the same SP values and then adjust if needed.

I’ve been asked to install an “eBoost 2” where the “LED accessory display” has become unattached from the plug and the green-blue-red-yellow wires it held. Could you please define the wiring of the 4 LED terminals on the back of the unit with respect to the white and blue wires of the individual LEDs.
The diagram in the manual or on the web site does not show this. Thank You

Godfrey,

The Red wires from the head unit go to the white wires on the LED. The blue wire for LED 1 goes to the purple wire and the blue wire for LED 2 goes to the blue wire on the main unit.

Hi…I finally got my car dyno-tuned and got to play with the eboost2. my problem is, why am I getting such a hard time getting into the boost settings. I follow the steps as per instructions,
press and hold MODE and BOOST buttons simultaneously. It takes me about 5 mins of doing this pressing buttons 20 times or more before i get into the setting mode. Is there a trick to make it easier to set?

thank you
Chrys

I was wondering if I could find any ‘more’ information regarding the e-boost2 SSB – Sequential switching function B.

I bought this product mainly for this feature as I own a 1988 TX3 Front Wheel Drive. I am finding it very hard to find more information about how I go about this process, or how much more it is going to cost :)

BTW… the installation was easy, and the setup was also easy. Thank you.

Regards
Chris….

Hi Chris, best bet to give Turbosmart HQ a call on 1300 735 506, one of the Tech Support guys can go over it with you:)

Chrys,

Try pressing and holding the mode button first before pressing the boost button.

I have the Eboost…not the EB2. Im running the 2 45mm TS gates and have 2 solenoids. As i thought that you needed 2 solenoids. Then i found the online instructions and saw it needed some kit

Hi there,

i run a turbo drag bike, upto about 15 psi, would one of your units benifit me, i have no boost control at the moment.

cheers for now
Andy.

Andrew,

Our boost controllers will benefit you quite you by allowing you to control all aspects of your boost curve. Our different sequential boost switching features will allow you to maximise traction and increase response.

is there any special things or add ons you need to run a twin turbo R34 gtr or will the eboost 2 run it will it control both the turbos??

Mick,

The E-Boost2 will control boost from both turbos without any special add ons. All you need is what is supplied in the standard kit

Hello. I have just installed an eboost2 and I am trying to get the AU feature to work to power a LED shift light. I have wired this using the diagram supplied on this site however I cannot get the light to work either at the relay (test lamp) or the light itself. The relay I have used is a 12v 40amp 4 pin (with resistor) normally open unit supplied by Narva. P/No. 68004BL.

Is it possible I have used the wrong kind of relay or could something else be at fault?

This is how I have wired the relay.

pin 30 = 5amp fused power in. Power also runs from here to the eboost
pin 85 = Earth. Eboost also earthed here.
pin 86 = White wire from Eboost
pin 87 = Runs to positive leg of LED

Dear friend, is that possible to put this thing on a smart fortwo (1.0 Turbo)?

Andre,

Try wiring it in the following order:
Pin 30= positive leg of LED
Pin 85= White wire of EB2
Pin 86= 12v power
Pin 87= 12v power

Gabriel,

Yes this product will fit on to any turbocharged vehicle.

Hello
David I’m from France I want to know what applications a eboost2 on a Yamaha R1 motorcycle model 99 has a team carburetor kit turbo Mc-xpress
Editing is it possible
thank you

poceo un mk con motor hayabusa y tengo colocado un turbomart e boost 2 y no se como se maneja y regula donde puedo conseguir un manual un saludo mario

Corteggiani,

The E-Boost2 will work on a carburretor setup as long as its not a draw through system ie, fuel being taken into the turbo.

Hello,
I want with E-Boost2,gear based boost working on a STI 2.5 My 2007.
How can i make the E-Boost clear in witch gear the car is.Shifting up from 1 to 6th gear won’t be the problem.But when i go from 6 to 3th gear for example,how does the E-Boost know that i’m in 3th gear?
I need some help here .
Best Regards,
Van Gorp Raf

Van,

You need to set the switch logic to ESP and then mount micro switches in your gearbox to ground the green and orange wire in different combinations to achieve different boost in gears eg: Gear 1 has no wires ground, gear 2 grounds the green wire to get SP2, gear 3 grounds the orange wire to get SP3 and gear 4 grounds both the green and orange wire to get SP4, then gear 5 and 6 will also need to ground both wires to hold SP4 to keep it on high boost.

i have just installed e-boost version 1 on my fd3s rx7 and it now miss fires if i accelerate hard but if i graudully bring on the boost its fine.also it is now running rich all the time,and when i start the eboost i cannot switch to differnt set points.

Hayden,

is the car tune to run the amount of boost the E-Boost is set to? Is it still running the standard ECU? What is the switch logic set to as if it is set to ESP, then it will not switch to different setpoints via the front buttons, only external switches.

thanks for the reply it was set to external set points that is all good now.it is running a apexi fc ecu with garret turbo,turbosmart wastgate the boost only set on 10psi it was running fine with the turbo xs manual boost controller i had on it also running 10psi.

i have a eboost 2 installed in my r33 gtr but cant find anyone in nz that knows how to tune it, need help to make it perform to its full potental in nz

dc
contact our distributor in NZ, Redline Performance.
Ask for Daryll and he will sort you out – happy tuning! Auckland
19 Industry Road, Penrose
Free Phone: 0800 85 65 85 0800 85 65 85
Phone: (09) 526 5021 (09) 526 5021
Fax: (09) 526 5029
darryl@mcphail.co.nz

Wellington
115 Gracefield Road, Seaview
Free Phone: 0800 85 65 85 0800 85 65 85
Phone: (04) 586 8130 (04) 586 8130
Fax: (04) 586 8030
phil@redlineperformance.co.nz

Christchurch
14 Mowbray Street, Christchurch
Phone: (03) 377 5472 (03) 377 5472
mark@redlineperformance.co.nz

When using the Sequential switching function B the instruction manual seems to read that you would have to go up to your highest SP before you can trigger the orange wire to make it go back down a set point. Is this true or could you go up and down? For example – sp1,sp2,sp3,sp4,sp3,sp2,sp3

Greg,
your example is correct – when using SSB earthing the green wire will go up one SP and earthing the Orange wire will down one SP.

Love the EBoost2 – I removed a HKS VI EVC to install the EBoost 2 one week before Powercruise, the best move I’ve ever made and when I ran into trouble at Powercruise (my fault) the Turbostart guys dropped every thing and ran to help me. Saved my event, thanks.

Taipan Motorsport,

Thanks for your comments and glad that we could help.

hi guys,my battery went flat in the typhoon,just needing to know will my eboost street lose its settings if i take the battery out of the car to charge it up?will i have to manually put the saved settings back in?any help will be appreciated!

cheers Ed.

Ed,

No, the E-Boost Street will not lose its settings if you remove the battery

I have a eboost2 in a car and ive just bought a eboost street for my current project.. Looking at the diagram in the eboost street the plumbing of the vac lines from the turbo to the solenoid are different. Basically using ports 1 and 2 ( single solenoid, single turbocharger hookup) as per the manual.

On my eboost2 on my other car i have it plumbed up with a t-piece etc and in the manual its called Two port connection Method (1) (For controlling boost on a turbo system with high back pressure)

Is there any reason why i cant hook my eboost street up with the two port connection method like i have my eboost2?

Cheers

Damon,

There is no reason why you can’t run the same connection method on both the E-Boost2 and E-Boost Street.

Hello,
I have an Eboost 2 Im tring to plumb the pressure/vacuum to the solenoid. Some background info; I have a custom built big single turbo system which flows very free,so much so the turbo bearly spins at idle (Non BB). Directly connected (pressure/vacuum turbo to wastegate)it boost creeps to 9psi with a 7.2psi wastegate spring. The wastegates location is considered to be in excellent/good flow position.

I look at the diagram of connection methods and do not know which to choose. I want to program the eboost2 to eventually boost a wide variety of ranges from 7-20psi at a touch of a button. Does that mean I need the 4 port solenoid?

For now, since i have the 3 port solenoid, which connection method will be the best fit to reach 10-14psi with out any heartaches?

Thank you,
Chris

Chris,

To control between 7 -20 PSI might not require a 4 Port solenoid. You will need to try it out on your setup to see whether you can get to 20 PSI.

You should try the single port connection method first with pressure only going to port 3 of the solenoid and port 2 of the solenoid to the bottom of the wastegate. Vent port 1 of the solenoid and the top port of the wastegate. This is a basic setup and is a good starting point.

If you can’t get to your desired 20 PSI, then try the two port connection method 1. Remember that when you change connection methods, you must reset the setpoints.

Hi;

I have a Holset 341Ve (VGT) turbo which I am planing to install on my project car (1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo). Can your e-Boost2 – 60psi control this turbo? If so, what kind of extra hardware and wiring is needed?

thanks

ben

Ben,

In theory, controlling the pressure signal to the actuator for the vanes by using the E-Boost 2 is possible but unfortunately has not been trialed yet.

My E-Boost2 won’t enter setup menu. Both the Mode and Setup buttons individually seem to work just fine. But both together seems to act as if I only pressed Mode. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Carlos

Carlos,

Try holding the mode button then the setup button straight after.

No luck. I’ve tried every combination of pressing one first then the other, and releasing one first then the other, releasing at the same time, holding for a few seconds, releasing quickly….nothing seems to work. If something isn’t wired properly, could that be the cause? As a gauge, everything seems fine. Thanks, Carlos

Carlos,

So all the buttons work individually but not when pressed together? What does it do when you try entering the setup menu? does it go to live RPM or switches to another boost group? Has it been like this since you got it?

When pressed together, it generally cycles thru the different modes (PHb, SP1, live…I don’t have the RPM signal hooked up so I don’t see those modes). Sometimes it just beeps…I’m guessing thats when the Setup button is released a tad later. I’ve only owned the car for a couple of months. The previous owner said it worked fine when he last used it but it wasn’t something that he had messed with much before selling. Before I hooked the hoses back up to the solenoid (seller had disconnected), I did attempt to enter setup mode and my recollection is that it did work…once. I remember seeing that over boost protection was set to 15. So it worked that one time. I came back a few days later, hooked the hoses up, and now can’t get it into setup mode.

Is it possible that the solenoid or its wiring is bad or not hooked up correctly? Is this something that the main unit could know about? Thanks, Carlos

I take back what I said about it sometimes just beeping. Releasing at the same time or even close to the same time moves the Mode.

Carlos,

How old is the unit? Where abouts are you located? You could speak to your local Turbosmart dealer to arrange your unit to be checked out by us.

Hallo Sir,

i am already buy eboost 2 and want instal to a drag car rx 7 , can you give me some intruction for wiring from e boost 2 to my liberty clutcless g box ( a box already have micro switch 1 t0 5 gear.

regards
jan
indonesia

Jan,

You will need to check out the different sequential boost switching modes in the instruction manual to see which mode you would like to use. Then wire up the trigger wires as per the instructions for that mode. You can find the instructions on the CD that came with the E-Boost2 or download it from our instructions page.

my son has a2003 ford focus with a focuswerks turbo kit with a turbo smart manual boost controler and a bosch diverter valve. we were looking for a eletronic boost controler. i have a few questions . when i read the instructions for the e boost street/EB2 i see you recomend not to install this on a draw thru system is that draw thru air or fuel we have a draw thru maf with a injected engine? i read that the e/boost will allow the motor to come in to boost 1000 rpm sooner how is this possible ? he wants me to build another motor for more boost , i say lets get all we can out of the current combo and i think the eboost could be the way to go to maximize this combo .Would a differnt diverter valve make the motor come up on boost quicker? any advice ?

Mike,

A draw through system is one which draws fuel and air through the turbocharger, used in carburetor fuel systems. The E-Boost will work fine on your car. It is possible to get good to build up quicker, in some systems, up to 1000 rpm earlier. This is achieved by controlling the pressure to the wastegate actuator and keeping the wastegate shut for longer. A diverter valve like our Kompact series BOV’s will also maximise your turbosystem as they can handle more boost if you want to increase boost levels on your car and they do not leak boost as some factory valves are designed to do.

I tried this pressure/vacuum setup below. I kept over boosting, I eventually set the SP,GP and Sensitivity down to zero’s and I still boost well over the spring in the wastegate?
What am I doing wrong?

I would like a setup that will allow me to boost the wategate spring pressure(7) and up to 20 depending on the numbers I program in to SP.

My specs
Single turbo
External wastegate
eboost2 3 port solenoid

Thanks,
Chris

“Chris,

To control between 7 -20 PSI might not require a 4 Port solenoid. You will need to try it out on your setup to see whether you can get to 20 PSI.

You should try the single port connection method first with pressure only going to port 3 of the solenoid and port 2 of the solenoid to the bottom of the wastegate. Vent port 1 of the solenoid and the top port of the wastegate. This is a basic setup and is a good starting point.

If you can’t get to your desired 20 PSI, then try the two port connection method 1. Remember that when you change connection methods, you must reset the setpoints.”

Tech Support Apr 27, 09:05 AM #

Chris,

How much are you overboosting by? How much more boost are you making with all of the numbers at zero? From your first post, it looks like your wastegate is too small as with just with the pressure line to wastegate, you are still overboosting.

hi, i have an eboost2 fitted to my 1999 s4 and was wondering if it should disply negative boost figure when idling? its reading in psi. and just shows zero when not on boost.

Ian

Ian,

At idle, the E-Boost should be displaying a negative number to indicate vacuum. If this is not the case, check that the line to the back of the E-Boost is connected to a good vacuum source at that the line is not kinked or damaged in any way.

hi,

Ive got an eboost street connected to my XR6 turbo, was working fine, but now i’m only getting a -4 to 0 read at vacuum, but have checked all the hoses and everything seems to be fine.

someone suggested it may be the solenoid, and I may need to recalibrate the boost pressure sensor? is that a possibility?

thanks.

Dan.

Dan,

Does the car still reach the boost pressure it was set at? With the engine off, what does the unit display?

Hi,
yeah it does reach the set boost pressure, which is only 5psi because the car is still stock at the moment, but it’s gets upto around 8psi with light accelaration, so it’s Reading way over.

With the engine off it’s reads at about 9psi.

Dan.

Dan,

Looks like its out of calibration. Please contact us directly so we can talk you through the factory zero function.

hi i have just put a eboost 2 in my car when i first put it in everything was fine untill i started my car up. now when i turn on the ignition on only the back ground lights turn on and the solinide dose not click. but when i hold mode and up or down when i turn the ignition on it works fine

How’s it going.

I am interested in purchasing the eboost2 to replace my current EBC since it cannot control high boost very well.

Before I give up my current EBC though, I would like a better understanding of how to set up boost by gear properly…
I have read the eboost-2 pdf several times already and the instructions are very vague on how to set up boost by gear properly..

If I have 5 gears to set up, I will do SP1, GP1, Sn1 for gear 1, SP2, GP2, and Sn2 for gear 2, etc up to gear 5, correct?

-If so, I understand that…but when I go to page 12 and 13 in the pdf I get completely confused with the ‘active set points’ and the configuration. It’s not clear on what needs to be done.

-Can tech explain this in a little more detailed description? I would like to run a different psi in each particular gear.

-In addition, how does the eboost-2 know which gear the car is in?

Thanks!

Michael,

Yes, each gear has a set of parameters that can be adjusted and you will need to set each one up. Up to 4 gears can be selected.

The EB2 has 2 external trigger wires that, when ground in a certain sequence, will change to a different boost level. So when both wires are not ground, set point 1 is selected, when the green wire is ground, it will go to set point 2, when the orange wire is ground, it will go to set point 3 and when both wires are ground, then it will go to set point 4. You will need to mount micro switches on the gear box to ground these wires in sequence to select the different boost levels.

I am ready to install e-boost street 40psi kit on my turbo charged mustang.

Currently a manual pressure regulator (“Coil hose Pneumatic”)is set at 24 psi to an external wastegate “Turbonetics Evolution”.
I plan to install e-boost street 40psi kit to be able to set SP at 17 psi and 24 psi.
Questions:
1./ Do I need to be concerned for white wire, green and orange? They appear to operate optional auxillary device and switch trigger.
2./ What are some auxilary devices and advantgaes of such?
3./ For another form of OBS protection along with the OBS on e-boost street what kind of over-boost relieve valve is suggested? And can it be connected in parallel with the e-boost solenoid, between turbocharger and external wastegate?
4./ Once operational how can the e-boost street be set up to improve performance over the current manual pressure regulator?
5./ Since the mustang and turbo charger has been tuned for 24 psi boost on dynamometer do I need to change anything even when I optimize the boost using the e-boost street capability?
Please advise,
Thanks,
Tony

Tony,

1) If you are not using external triggers to change boost levels or you do not have any auxilary devices you want to turn on, then you do not need to be concerned with those wires.

2) Auxliary devices include water/methanol injection, intercooler water sprays etc

3) You can hook up a valve like a wastegate valve which is controlled by a solonoid that is activated by the auxilary output as a secondary overboost.

4) The E-Boost street gives you the ability to tune the curve of your boost curve so you can set things like gate pressure which clamps the signal to the wastegate reducing spool up time. You can set different boost pressures and altering them is simple from the cabin of the car.

5) ideally once the boost is set, it is best to get the tune checked out as you could be making more boost at lower RPM than before which means there might not be enough fuel at that part of the map for the increased response.

Thanks for quick & good support.

Ref: 5./ Tune check
I do have a AEM Fuel-Air wide band gauge operating and works well.
From my last dynamometer test chart; 3500 rpm 5psi boost 13.6F/A, 4500rpm 13psi 13.2F/A, and 5500rpm 27psi 11.4F/A. Without boost, slow speed 1500/2000rpm usually near 14.2F/A.

Question.-What fuel-air (F/A) ratio should I maintain at boost 6 psi, 12 psi, 18 psi and 24 psi boost since I can can monitor F/A ratio?
Thanks
Tony

Tony,

It is best to speak to your local tuner to what sort of A/F ratios suit that particular engine. Achieving the right A/F during wide open throttle at a boost level is fairly easy in most engines but the key is the fuel and ignition timing when the engine comes onto boost. Get it wrong and the car feels sluggish coming onto boost. Get it right and the throttle will be crisp and responsive.

How Deep is the Eboost 2 60mm Unit?

Nat,

It is 43mm deep from the back of the bezel.

hi there i have an eboost2 on my rx7,it is on a toggle switch so i can use it after i run without having my acc on.
lately when i go to switch it on the eboost2 lights up blue but nothing else happens,after 5 min it switches on or i have to turn it on and of a few times before it works.
any help would be grate cheers.

CMERUN,

Where is the eboost2 getting its power and ground from? How old is the unit? Does it have a raised bezel section at the front of it?

its getting a constant power source from a live wire,from the cars loom.its earth is to the body of the car,and yes it is raised at the front,and i think the eboost2 is about 2 years old maybe 3.but its not used a lot as its a drag car only.

CMERUN,

Is the power source switched on via a relay? Is the relay a resistor type? Is there anything else getting its power from the same power wire to the E-Boost?

it used to be on a relay and started to play up so i took it out and just fused it.
and there is nothing else getting power of the wire but the eboost2.
i might buy a nother relay and wire it up again and see if it changes.

CMERUN,

Try hooking up the ground wire directly to the battery and also hooking up diodes as per our EMI tech bulletin hook up. If problems do persist, please contact us directly.

I currently am running a 2 step gated boost controller on my drag bike and im having truble getting the boost psi that i want i need to keep the boost low for Launch around 10 psi but increase it up to 30 psi going down the track do you think the E- Boost will help me with that

Hi, can You help with the coloured wires position localizing of the connector, I have e-boost 40/60. There are 8 positions on the back of the controller. I need to know the positions of the red, black, grey, brown and yellow. I lost the connector. Or if it’s possible sent a picture on my mail of the jack. Thank You very much!

Dave,

The E-Boost will give you the ability to control that level of boost with the variety of wastegate hook up methods that it can do.

C.J.

Looking at the plug on the wiring harness from the front of it with the lock tab at the top; top row of wires from left to right is yellow, white, green, orange; bottom row of wires from left to right is red, black, brown, grey.

Tech support after your suggestion of the kompact bov/ eboost street on my sons turbo ford focus i got to tell you , you were right on target the car has never run better the boost is coming on lower in the rpm range and hits the targeted boost lower in the range and pulls hard all the way to redline .It pulls hard enough to get wheel spin in the top of 3rd gear something it would not do before at the same boost levels .thanks again for the advice
mike

I have a 1st gen. electric boost controler,& need to aquire a wastegate control silenoid. had a cyclinder go south & oil made it’s way to solenoid. any help in getting this part would b greatly appriciated. if u think cleaning parts w contact cleaner will suffice please advise.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH, I’m very happy now,GOD BLESS YOU!

Mike and C.J.,

no worries, glad we can help. If you need any further info, feel free to contact us.

Fred,

you can get one of our E-Boost solenoid kits (TS-0301-3003) from your local Turbosmart dealer. We do not recommend cleaning it out as if not done thoroughly, the solenoid can get stuck open which could result in over boost.

A question regarding the vacuum/pressure signal for an eboost street 40psi. Should I put a T piece in the hose running between the rear of the throttle body to the wastegate, and take the pressure signal from there, or should I put a T piece in the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the manifold to the heater controls? Which would be preferable? I have a VYII Gen III LS1. Thanks

Can you confirm that the eboost2 solenoid should be plumbed to a boost only signal and not a boost/vacuum signal? What would be the ill effect of plumbing a boost/vacuum signal into the solenoid?

Thanks in advance

I installed a 40psi E-boost Street. It appears to be reading vacuum correctly but when it is under boost it reads zero-1psi only. I have a previously installed boost gauge that I used to compare. I suspected a reference line issue so I ran a seperate line outside the car to prevent obsruction but this gave the same results. Is there something I am missing? good power, good ground, unrestricked reference line. Possible setting issue? Oh and the ugrade I did from your 38mm to a 50mm wastegate is doing great! 7 lbs no more no less!

Hi:
I installed the twin LED accesory on my E-boost2, followed the wiring and setup instructions but the led’s don’t function=> (blue wires on top and white wires on the bottom of the plug), my settings on Le1 are;rOn=050,rOf=055,bOn=000,bOf=000 Le2;rOn=085,rOf=087,bOn=000,bOf=000 Did I forget something or need to do something else??? Please give me some light here!! Thanks!!!!!!

Andrew,

the best source of vacuum would be the line from your intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. The other ones could be in a position that don’t produce a good signal due to flow paths of air etc.

Peter,

The solenoid should be plumbed into boost only. In certain solonoid hookups, having vacuum will cause the wastegate to hang open or not shut properly.

Jesse,

Where are you getting your vacuum source from? How much vacuum is it reading?

Domingo,

Is the RPM signal installed on the E-Boost2? Try setting the rOf values to zero so that when you reach the ON values, it just stays on to redline.

The vac. source is from a tee on my brake booster line. I have a boost gauge also tee’d there that I used to compare. At idle its at -18 which is the same as my solo boost gauge. once it gets to pushing about 0psi/vac. the unit shows -9 to -5 and in boost of 7psi it shows about 1psi or less.

Jesse,

With the engine off, but power to the unit, what does it display? Can the line to the EBoost get kinked in any way when there is engine movement? Do you have access to a hand held pressure pump where you can apply a known pressure to the unit to see what it displays?

With the engine off and power to the unit on, it shows 0 psi. No restricstion on the line that I can identify during driving. I will use a pressure pump tomorrow and post the results.

Hello guys

Need help wth my eboost street 40 psi…
I had a HKS EVC V, and removed it to fit this unit… I have also a Turbosmart 38mm EWG unit… I have clipped the top hose from the EWG which was used by the HKS and is now free to the atmosphere as in the instructions, and connected the solenoid as shown, the problem is I am still getting base boost of 0.5 bar :( What can be wrong here? The solenoid test menu is working fine, so I am quite puzzled here. Solenoid is wired as follows: Port 1: Free, Port 2: From bottom of EWG, Port 3: Pressure, is this all ok? (In the drawing in the instructions i am quite confused cause port 1 in the drawing (at right hand) actually represents port 2 in real life?)

Thanks for any help in advance!

Jose,

what spring have you got in the wastegate? What are the settings you have in the eboost? The ports should be port 2, which is the left port should go to the bottom port of the wastegate, port 3 which is the center port should go to pressure only and port 1 which is the right port should be vent to atmosphere.

It looks well connected then, and I have the 0.5 bar spring in the EWG hence this is the boost I am getting…pretty weird

Jose,

What settings are you putting in the eboost? also, where is the Eboost unit getting its vacuum signal from?

Hello again

My previous post was deleted I guess, but I wrote that I had solved the problem, seemed there was an extra T connection in the pipe, and this is now blocked so everything is working fine. I am though a bit disappointed about the boost buildup, hope I can fix this with some settings, current settings: OBS: 1.65, SP1: 55, GP1: 1.58, SN1:20

can I put my eboost2 on a button switch, so I don’t have to lean foward to click up thru my boost settings?

I am having some weird issues with the controller, my boost spikes to my desired boost around 1.5 bar, and then it just drops immediatelly under 1 bar, and then shoots up and down around 1.2 bar or so… I have been trying to adjust different BG1 settings but nothing seem to help, hope someone cann come with any suggestions please :(

Billy,

Yes you can adjust boost settings. You need to look at the switch logic part of the instructions to determine which method suits you and how to wire it up.

Jose,

What is your desired boost level? what engine and turbo combination have you got? It sounds like your GP value is set too high.

Hello again

Boost level desired is 1.6 bar. Its a Fiat Coupe 20vt with Garett 2871RS with Turbosmart 38mm external wastegate. I have almost ruled out GP since its now down to 0.3 bar and still same issue, boosts fine to 1.5 and immediately something is telling it to open the wastegate and the boost is then reduced to around half or so

Oh no, I am quite sure I have the problem, I have connected to port 3 to manifold hose, didnt read the post where it stated the pressure only issue…will correct this asap!

Is there any website/number/mail for help? I have now finally connected everything as it should, but still have a lot of issues to make the controller work properly… I can get it to work perfect at around 1 bar, but not any more than this at all without the usual problem of wastegate getting opened and boost dropping by around half…The thing is that the SP value doesnt seem to adjust boost gradually, for example a SP1 of 50 and other GP1, SN1 values can give me the same boost as a SP1 of 10 and other GP1, SN1 values… im completely out of ideas here! Hope someone can help me out, even though there are huge time zone differences (GMT+1 here)

Where can I purcahse a replacement wiring loom for the Eboost2

Thanks

Hec

Jose,

Someone will contact your email address regarding this issue.

Hec,

you can purchase it from our online spare parts page or from your local turbosmart dealer. Part number is: TS-0301-3001

When quoted as 66m or 60mm for the EBOOST2 gauge. Does this refer to the body or the face.As the face is larger than the body.

Cheers

Hec

Hec,

The size refers to the body diameter.

I recently purchased and installed a eBoost2 controller. I have a Dodge Caliber SRT. It has a multi coil ignition system. (one coil per cyl with coil on the plug) I am looking for a way to hook up the RPM signal. I tried directly to one of the coils and that gave me an erratic/inaccurate reading. Any ideas what would work?

Cheers,

Chris

Chris,

You can get a tacho generator from MSD or Autometer to amplify the trigger signal from the ECU to the E-Boost2.

Hi,
I recently purchased a eboost street 40psi model and I want to wire an external switch to the unit. I was just wondering if it is possible to wire a switch with an LED light in it, is the voltage comming out of the controller enough to power the light? Thanks

Spangers,

The voltage is very low on the external switching wires. It will not be high enough to power any lights.