In a boosted application. Should the reg run its own vac line to the manifold or can it be tee’d in with other components? I.e can i have it linked with the bov or boost controller? Reason i ask is i have no where else to connect it, without tapping the manifold.. Also i have been suggested (by a workshop) to run it before the throttle body? Will that even work??? apparently it will not rise for boost if i dont??

Tim,

Ideally, it is best for the FPR to have its own vac line as this aids in response to the change in manifold pressure. The vacuum line should always be from inlet manifold, after the throttle body as the FPR needs to see both vacuum and pressure to keep the pressure differential constant

Hi
Will Turbosmart be producing any fuel regulators in the near future like to original TReg Pro with click turn top on it? It was a wonderful design that required just the hand for fine adjustment and unlike any other fuel regulator I have seen. I’ve tried everywhere to get one for a customer who insists on this product but I cannot find any old stock.

Hi there,
I’m building a 4agte setup, looking for an eventual max of about 300kw atw.
I’m running 2× 044 pumps, Carter black lift pump, 550cc injectors (later to be upgraded to 1000cc with e85).
I want to know if the FPR800 is suitable to make that much power, and if it’s suitable for use with e85.

Cheers,
Mark M

Mark,

The FPR will handle enough fuel flow for the power levels you want. The FPR will need to be regularly checked if you are using E85.

Ok great.
Just curious – what would i be regularly checking for?

Cheers,
Mark M

Mark,

Just check that the internals do not have any corrosion

firstly why do you rate your pressure regs on HP? given that you could have twin fuel pumps on a low HP engine that may still require a big reg to control pressure?
would the FPR800 be enough to keep two 255L walbro fuel pumps under control? the sard i have on there now is not, car is an evo 4 and still has standard lines and a 2 litre surge tank

Jack,

It is rated that way as to make a certain amount of power, you need to provide the engine with a certain amount of fuel flow. At idle, the pumps flow enough fuel to sustain the max power level but the engine isn’t consuming this fuel at idle, so it needs to be returned back into the tank or else, the fuel pressure will be very high.
The FPR800 should be enough, but if you are using standard return lines, these might act as a restriction in the system which could increase the fuel pressure.

what would cause this to sit at 30 psi no matter how far i turn the set screw. ho intank pump going to 4 injectors/800cc snowmobile.

Brandon,

Sounds like some dirt has gotten into the FPR and is stuck between the valve and seat.

its it possible to take it apart and clean it?

Brandon,

you can take it apart to clean it but if the dirt that is between the valve and seat has marked the parts, then the product might not work properly. Surface finish on both of these surfaces must be smooth.

hi just a question about a fuel set up for a drag dag with a 800hp 13b rotary

i wil be running 2 x B044 pumps from a surge tank one pump per fuel rail with 2x indy blue 1700cc injectors per rail

i want to run each rail with its own line, pump and FPR1200 fuel regulator
on a common return line

do you see any issues with this set up i understand that 1x FPR1200 will do the job but im thinking out side the box

Darren,

2 x FPR1200’s might be too big for your pumps feeding each rail which might cause unstable fuel pressure. It would be better to run a single FPR1200.

G’day
Im running a Holden Ls1 ute with a vortech v1 kit, 36lb injectors and a walbro pump.
Leaning out up top.
Will any of these regulators replace the standard one at the rear next to the tank? There is no return line on the stock fuel rails.

David,

Our regulators will work your your setup. Its best to have the regulator next to the fuel rail rather than remotely mounted in the rear of the car as this will give it more control of the fuel pressure.

Hi,
I’m currently building a VL Commodore RB30E+T, running a walbro 255LPH High Press intank pump to 4L surge tank, on to a single Bosch 044 external pump then down to a custom fuel rail with 550cc injectors. Would I need one of these FPRs? or would my factory one be enough? I may need to remove the factory one in order to fit a front-facing plenum – will the FPR800 be ok with my setup? (I have changed all the factory rubber fuel hoses to -6AN braid – including all the lines running to the surge tank. The steel lines running from back to the front of car are still the factory ones. (hose from surge tank which feeds the 044 is a -8AN, only about 20cm long, the exit from the 044 is -6 again.

cheers

Sam,

The FPR800 would be good for your application. You can even use FPR1200 if your are running -6AN lines to and from the fuel rail.

install a fpr800 with Fuel Pressure Gauge(TS-0402-2023)
adjusting screw requires alot of turning(increase or decrease) to regulate the fuel pressure and fuel pressure differs at times .have i purchased a faulty fpr or gauge

Rocco,

How much does the fuel pressure differ at times? What base pressure are you running to the injectors with the vaccum linee off the FPR

fuel pressure difference 2-4 psi
base pressure 35 psi no vacuum

Rocco,

What type of engine and fuel pump do you have? When it fluctuates, is the vacuum line connected to the FPR when the fuel pressure fluctuates? Is engine RPM stable and vacuum reading stable at idle? Is the gauge flickering or slowly moving up and down?

3sgte 2lt-factory fuel pump-rpm is stable-20hg of vacuum at idle is stable.when i start the motor fuel pressure(fp) goes to 40 psi for 10 seconds then the fpr clicks fp drops to 36 psi with vacuum hose connected,also when i rev the motor enough to create 0 vacuum then release the throttle the fp goes to 40psi for 10 seconds then the fpr clicks fp drops to 36psi,at times the fp has drop to 32 psi.
i’ve set the base fp to 35 psi with ignition on and the engine not on (power up fuel pump via diagnostic port)

Rocco,

The base pressure should be set with the engine on and the vacuum line off the FPR. The engine needs to be on as the power being supplied to the fuel pump is different when the engine is on due to the alternator.

It sounds like an issue with your fuel pump or the power supply to the fuel pump rather than the FPR as it will hold a constant pressure for a certain repeatable time and then drop. This would also explain why alot of spring tension is required to reach your desired fuel pressure.

i’ve check the base fp with the motor running,vacuum hose connected it still reads 35psi,what about the clicking noise it made when the fp drop from 40psi to 36 psi.

done a fuel pressure check with factory fuel reg to compare results with TS fuel reg.
Factory reg-constant pressure,more sensitive to vacuum (eg quickly increasing rpm),holding pressure when motor is off.
TS reg-showing 60 psi with out re-adjusting,(base fuel pressure was set at 35 psi before testing ) does not hold pressure when motor is off.

Rocco,

Does the click noise come from the FPR itself or could it be a relay turning something else on or there might be something in the return line like a one way valve? Have you checked whether the standard pressure regulator does the same thing?

clicking coming from TS reg,when i snap open the throttle,fp increases to 40-42 psi,when throttle is released fp pressure stays at 40 psi for 5 seconds and then fpr clicks and fp drops to 35 psi,the factory reg does not do this.

I have an RX7 with a Walbro 255 pump.

Would be needing a dual inlet FPR that is capable of handling fuel premix.

Seeing as how rotaries run richer and are more sensitive to its fueling needs will the 800 be enough or should I consider going with a 1200?

I don’t see myself going for more then 600hp, ever :P

Serge,

All the FPR’s will handle fuel premix. The FPR1200 has 2 -6AN inlet ports and a gauge port where as the FPR800 only has 2 1/8 NPT inlet ports at 90 degrees to each other. the FPR1200 will look alot neater but both will work fine.

I’m planning on dressing up my engine bay on my 32 skyline with a basically stock rb25. can these Fpr’s be used in stock setups with no hassle?

Bluboy,

You can use a FPR800 without any hassles.

I have been having problems with fpr’s as the vacuum/boost diaphragm goes out on them.Brand names of OBX and autoteq.Is it possible that my car does something to them 03 srt4/255 lph walbro,or are they just faulty ???.

Larry,

Some brands use materials that are not suited to today’s fuel. Our FPR series use materials which will withstand any types of pump and race fuel. For your setup, a FPR800 will suit.

I just purchased a FPR800 and getting ready to install it. Will the threads for the gauge, inlet and outlet require any type of thread sealer? If so what does turbosmart recommend. Thanks in advance.

Casey,

It is good to use a thread sealant on the threads. We use Loctite 567 on the gauge port thread from factory.

Hi,

Can i use the FPR 2000 on a SR20DET with aftermarket fuel rail as i’m planning on using AN8 lines?

thanks

Chaos,

Yes you can use FPR2000 on your SR20DET as long as you have a aftermarket pump which flows more fuel than the stardard unit.

I am currently building a boosted 347 stroker with a bbk 5001 inntake and fuel rails. With my set up I’m looking at about 750hp on 18lbs of boost. Do you have a FPR that will work with my set up. Any help you can provide will be a appreciated

Tim,

All of our regulators will be able to give you control of fuel pressure for your engine. It comes down to what fittings you would like to use between your rail and the regulator.

It appears that your FPRs all have a 1:1 ratio of pressure rise to boost. Is there a benefit to a rising rate FPR? If so what are the benefits and what ratio would be preferred?

Thanks,

Jorge

Jorge,

The benefit of a rising rate FPR is that a constant pressure differential is maintained between the manifold and the fuel injector. For example, if base fuel pressure with no vacuum signal to the FPR is 40 psi, then with the signal line installed, for every psi of boost pressure, the FPR adds a PSI of fuel pressure, maintaining the pressure difference of 40 psi between the manifold and fuel pressure ensuring that your injectors are working in their correct rating. Also makes tuning alot easier as things work in a linear scale. The ideal ratio is 1:1.

hey,

ive recently purchased an fpr800 for my vl – fuel setup is currently uninstalled with -6 fittings from my surge tank, 3/8” hose to my factory fuel lines,and -6 fittings from the feed and return of my billet fuel rail (single entry and single return)

im using a bosch 044 with room on my surge for another down the track when i seek to upgrade my turbo and i have siemens deka 610cc high imp injectors

im just looking to see if the fpr800’s 1/8 npt fittings will be sufficient for fuel flow or will the fpr1200 with -6 fittings be more appropriate ?

cheers

Blake,

It would look neater to use a FPR1200 since it already uses -6 lines but both will flow enough fuel for your application.

Hi guys,

I have a FPR800 with a 600hp in tank pump and 850cc injectors, and when i put the car on the dyno to get it tuned they found that it wasnt getting fuel at top end. I am still running the standard lines and dont have a surge tank. Is there anything in this setup that i am missing or need to do or is it possible that there is something wrong with the reg? i have bought a diaphragm assembly in hope that this might fix my problem. The reg also doesnt run its own vacuum line but is only teed in the with the map sensor for the computer.

thanks for your help

Patrick,

What type of pump are you using on what engine and turbo? How much boost are you running and what is your desired power figure?

Fuel drop off at the top end normally is a fuel pump issue.